This lunch took place
a mere week ago. At the beginning a mere blur in my memory, elapsed time seems
to be making wonders in cataloguing this into my memory bank. The original
draft was written sleep-deprived and reminiscent on a plane; since then, there
have been several rewrites to accommodate my taste buds and returning memory.
This place requires no
introduction. This eponymous theatre, where Head Sushi Chef Jiro Ono works his
skills and art, was the showcase of the documentary movie “Jiro Dreams of
Sushi”. Should you not have watched this motion picture on sushi (and it comes
recommended), be well prepared for the food cravings during and post-watching.
Sukiyabashi Jiro shot
to fame following its recognition as the first sushi place to be awarded three stars
by the Michelin guide. Then came the motion picture that brought worldwide
recognition to the uninitiated public.
This is not a
restaurant where you can walk in without prior reservation. In fact, rumour has
it that Sukiyabashi Jiro is one of the most difficult restaurants to get a
reservation at. Some blogs have even mentioned the difficulties for
non-Japanese speakers in securing those slots. Lady Luck might have been
favouring me as I sneaked in a lunchtime reservation on my actual birthday (: The booking was actually made 3 weeks prior to
the day.
The menu is
straightforward: omakase. Based on seasonal and fresh products on the day, the
chef would tailor-make the daily menu: 18 pieces of sushi and fruit as
dessert. The price is steep at ¥30,000 when compared to other very good quality sushi places in
Tokyo (and Tokyo has a good number of those).
The eating experience
at Sukiyabashi Jiro was something that I looked forward to throughout this trip.
The opportune event that this was going to be my last meal in Tokyo before a
flight back to Hong Kong provided the possibility of a big bang exit to Tokyo.
Copious amount of
press coverage and blog reviews have covered the dinner’s experience; the
documentary provided glimpses as well. The serious atmosphere would be the most
common denominator. There has also been the odd writing about poor service
towards non-Japanese speakers.
I had been
particularly anxious about the latter. Reassuringly the very instant I walked
in, one of the apprentices came over and conversed in English. Omakase it is
confirmed, no food allergy on my side and I eat anything and everything – good
to go, the show now belongs to Jiro-san, Yoshikazu-san (Jiro’s elder son) and
the kitchen.
Should you have
watched the documentary, you will find the place totally recognisable. The setting,
decoration and plating are unchanged. Counter seating for 8-10 persons, side
tables for post-sushi tea and fruit.
The experience. I left
dazed with a blurred memory and strong indecisiveness. When I originally
started writing, I was on a plane mid-way between Tokyo and Hong Kong; seven
hours of pondering and collecting my thoughts together (unsuccessfully I should
mention) had passed. In hindsight, one word to describe it all: intense. On the
plane, my thoughts were simply incoherent – the most expensive fast food, what
the heck, wow, euh. Sukiyabashi Jiro had blown me away – but what exactly had
provoked such a dishevelled state of mine left me clueless.
The details. I walked
in early for my reservation time at 12.25. I left at 12.55. 30 minutes, 18 pieces of sushi, fruit for dessert and green tea,
damage ¥30,000. Factor in the actual eating (and picture taking)
of 15 minutes for sushi. No wonder I was left in a daze. If you were wondering,
the other 15 minutes saw me sitting on a side table enjoying a slice of melon
and tea – but more importantly pondering what high speed train hit me.
Upon arrival, I stowed
my phone away (no phone allowed at the counter seats) and politely asked
permission for picture taking. The kind staff specified that only pictures of
the sushi were allowed. The movie does a great job - better than I could
possibly imagine photographing – at capturing the beauty of the individual
pieces of sushi. Why take pictures when you can enjoy the first hand experience
of seeing the kitchen at work? The knife skills, the defined organisational
roles and production chain in arranging together the sushi that shortly will be
tingling your taste buds, Jiro’s artful skilled fingers (and he has got
beautiful fingers) and the finished product contrasting nicely against the
black granite. As incoherent sounding, I can recall each of the above-mentioned
in sharp and clear detail – is that the magic of this place?
This kitchen is passionate
about the art of sushi making. You can feel the passion. You can feel the
seriousness in ensuring that each piece of sushi is perfect. Many have pointed
out this seriousness and ensuing uncomfortable dining experience (no
chit-chatting around et cetera). For one of the most difficult restaurants to
book, I was surprisingly the only customer at lunchtime. Dining alone without
any other customer at lunchtime was quite the daunting and stressful
experience. I admit to feeling the uncomfortable and scrutinising eyes of both
Jiro Ono and his elder son, Yoshikazu while they wait for me to take a picture
and eat before they proceed on making the next piece of sushi. Yet it does not
take anything away for me; it shows a polite pacing of the sushi such that it
reaches completion by the time you are ready to eat it. Or maybe they were very
interested in me making faces while eating. The whole eating might have been
fast-paced but I remember my face showing smiles of contentment and hand gestures
showing appreciation and delight. Their attention to detail might have rubbed
onto me in that I remember specific details.
Despite all the
seriousness in the air, there also exists a down-to-earth and human interaction
and attention. I remember that for the clam sushi, Jiro re-positioned the sushi
such that the more photogenic side was pointing towards me for the picture. For
the prawn sushi, I got slightly reprimanded by Jiro (in Japanese) and Yoshikazu
(in English) about the tail end – they thought I would eat it as well, I had a
good chuckle here. While it might be hard to break a smile out of Jiro and
Yoshikazu (most probably due to my lack of Japanese language skills), the chef
responsible for the tamago was easier towards a smile. At the end, Yoshikazu
offered a picture taking with Jiro-san – I dared not decline.
Enough of the dining
experience. Time for the crux of the show – the sushi. Pictures might be worth
a thousand words; they might be making you salivate a bit. They are now making
me crave to go back and reminisce the taste and texture of every single piece
of sushi. Sadly the pictures cannot show the balance of each component in the sushi,
the precise construction and finally the combination of the whole that enhances
the flavour. I completely bypassed the soy sauce for most of the sushi and
rightly so.
 |
| The daily menu |
Overall the freshness,
quality and flavour of the seafood stand out. Nothing more to say.
The Oo-toro was simply
melting - amazing. This has always been my go-to comparison – here I found a
piece that might never be surpassed.
The anago was
just mind-blowing. That very same morning, I was served a very good one at
Sushi Dai, Tsukiji fish market; however Jiro’s is a few steps ahead and a real
regal. I could have more and more of this.
The ten-year tamago.
Fluffy. Airy. Slight sweetness. Perfect. Maybe I had an out of body experience
here but I remember tasting the full richness and flavour when the air pockets were
burst open.
Hindsight is making me
value this dining experience more and more. The more time that passes by, the
more I relish this once-in-a-lifetime adventure. Fast-paced, serious kitchen,
attention to detail, the balance of the individual sushi but also the gentle
and thoughtful menu and service – intense is the one descriptor that comes to
mind. So many emotions, flavours and sights experienced in such a short time.
This is far from the
dining experience you would hope to experience at a three star restaurant. Gone
is the chilling out and enjoying the moment and experience. You are in for a
rough ride but come away with plenty of good memories in hindsight. Maybe this
is what makes Sukiyabashi Jiro such an experience – it is growing on me, days
and weeks after my meal.
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| Jiro insisted I take the receipt and keep it as a souvenir! |
Ending questions
- Worth trying? Yes,
for the ride of a lifetime.
- Will I go back? I
would like to. I want a second opinion and experience (after preferably
refining my sushi knowledge) while Jiro is still at the helm. I will definitely
be back when Yoshikazu takes over and creates his own personification (or more
subtly refinement) to sushi.
- Best sushi? Some
amazing stuff but since I have not tried every sushi restaurant, I shall
reserve judgement. This is by far the best I have had so far.
- Advice? Forget the
money, enjoy the short moment and open your eyes. And maybe forget the camera!
Trivia
My failed
attempt at attending the fish auction at Tsukiji market got me lost within the
public-restricted areas. And there and then, was Yoshikazu Ono finishing off
his morning seafood shopping and riding away on his motorcycle (it is no more
the bicycle as in the movie – he got an upgrade).
